{"id":129851,"uuid":"88c17fd9-e5d0-479c-8d01-03db32e127f3","name":"Personalized 3D Halloween Themed Apparel Custom Dog Cat Shirt and Sweatshirt for Pet Owners and Lovers","preview_url":"users\/46473\/platform-products\/129851\/6acf57a0a1326.jpg","preview_thumbnail":"users\/46473\/platform-products\/129851\/6acf57a0a1326_thumbnail.webp","artworks":[{"id":1342266,"name":"1","description":null,"width":1624,"height":1624,"thumbnail":"users\/46473\/artworks\/6acf57a171423_thumbnail.webp","is_locked":null,"template_settings":{"label":"Number of Pets","display_type":"radio"},"current_version_id":2951082,"design_format":"rgb","status":0,"schema_version":2,"data":[{"id":"template-519179","name":"1","addons":[],"layers":[{"id":"layer-824872","top":238.3,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac9d80e282c7_large.webp","left":-52.21,"name":"home_54","type":"static-photo","width":1092.34,"height":1092.34,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"no_customization","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-185981","top":1426.78,"left":996.94,"name":"Pet Name","text":"COCO","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":581.85,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":204.16,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":979.95,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-551619","top":-0.43,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":713.34,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":649.14,"height":1298.62,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","is_layer_output_size":true,"color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-172006","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-144750"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-485846","top":-0.43,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":713.34,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":649.14,"height":1298.62,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","is_layer_output_size":true,"color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-172006","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-144750"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-643305","top":-0.43,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":713.34,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":649.14,"height":1298.62,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","is_layer_output_size":true,"color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-172006","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-144750"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-176157","top":-0.43,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":713.34,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":649.14,"height":1298.62,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","is_layer_output_size":true,"color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-172006","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-144750"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-378649","top":-0.42,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":713.35,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":648.87,"height":1298.62,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","is_layer_output_size":true,"color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-172006","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-144750"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-969919","top":-0.62,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":705.79,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":649.24,"height":1299.14,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","is_layer_output_size":true,"color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-172006","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-144750"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-144750","name":"Pet's Accessories","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-172006","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-172006","name":"Group 1","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":true,"visible":true}],"positions":["template-layer","layer-144750","layer-551619","layer-485846","layer-643305","layer-176157","layer-378649","layer-969919","layer-824872","layer-185981","layer-172006"],"charge_enabled":false},{"id":"template-362962","name":"2","addons":[],"layers":[{"id":"layer-939164","top":129,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac9d80e282c7_large.webp","left":582.94,"name":"home_ 1","type":"static-photo","width":722.87,"height":722.87,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"no_customization","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-602367","top":99.64,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac9d80e282c7_large.webp","left":-204.09,"name":"home_54","type":"static-photo","width":722.87,"height":722.87,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"no_customization","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-604881","top":1112.23,"left":516.77,"name":"Pet Name #1","text":"COCO","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":537.45,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":188.58,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":905.17,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-111033","top":1112.02,"left":1357.35,"name":"Pet Name #2","text":"MIA","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":537.45,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":188.58,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":905.17,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-286206","top":4.59,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":287.16,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":555.11,"height":970.65,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-590062","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-422603"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-826247","top":4.59,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":287.16,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":555.11,"height":970.65,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-590062","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-422603"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-511311","top":4.59,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":287.16,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":555.11,"height":970.65,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-590062","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-422603"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-102533","top":4.59,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":287.16,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":555.11,"height":970.65,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-590062","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-422603"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-558722","top":4.6,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":287.17,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":554.88,"height":970.65,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-590062","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-422603"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-490594","top":2.59,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":284.95,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":555.2,"height":971.03,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-590062","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-422603"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-422603","name":"Pet's Accessories #1","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-590062","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-590062","name":"Group 1","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-455152","name":"Group 2","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-614632","top":4.51,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1068.64,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":555.11,"height":970.65,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-455152","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-992128"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-590625","top":4.51,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1068.64,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":555.11,"height":970.65,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-455152","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-992128"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-182306","top":4.51,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1068.64,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":555.11,"height":970.65,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-455152","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-992128"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-937709","top":4.51,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1068.64,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":555.11,"height":970.65,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-455152","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-992128"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-845334","top":4.52,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1068.65,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":554.88,"height":970.65,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-455152","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-992128"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-489780","top":4.36,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1068.28,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":555.2,"height":971.03,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-455152","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-992128"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-992128","name":"Pet's Accessories #2","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-455152","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"}],"is_global":false,"positions":["template-layer","layer-422603","layer-286206","layer-826247","layer-511311","layer-102533","layer-558722","layer-490594","layer-602367","layer-604881","layer-590062","layer-939164","layer-992128","layer-614632","layer-590625","layer-182306","layer-937709","layer-845334","layer-489780","layer-455152","layer-111033"],"charge_enabled":false},{"id":"template-107046","name":"3","addons":[],"layers":[{"id":"layer-839790","top":3.45,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac9d80e282c7_large.webp","left":1203.35,"name":"home_ 1","type":"static-photo","width":618,"height":618,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"no_customization","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-104532","top":829.28,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac9d80e282c7_large.webp","left":-215.16,"name":"home_54","type":"static-photo","width":618.24,"height":618.24,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"no_customization","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-486804","top":1207.19,"left":380.21,"name":"Pet Name #1","text":"COCO","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":361.5,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":126.84,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":608.83,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-395108","top":1206.95,"left":1219.84,"name":"Pet Name #3","text":"LUNA","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":361.68,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":127,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":905.17,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-773017","top":1206.95,"left":795.79,"name":"Pet Name #2","text":"MIA","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":361.68,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":127,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":905.17,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-547135","top":221.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":204.68,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.94,"height":868.75,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-179415","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-619905"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-530313","top":221.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":204.68,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.94,"height":868.75,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-179415","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-619905"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-510188","top":221.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":204.68,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.94,"height":868.75,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-179415","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-619905"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-972974","top":221.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":204.68,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.94,"height":868.75,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-179415","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-619905"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-937737","top":221.07,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":204.69,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.78,"height":868.75,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-179415","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-619905"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-527117","top":221.12,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":201.62,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":397,"height":869.09,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-179415","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-619905"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-619905","name":"Pet's Accessories #1","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-179415","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-179415","name":"Group 1","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-196753","name":"Group 2","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-305490","top":223.58,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":618.54,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.74,"height":870.66,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-196753","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-426728"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-361348","top":223.58,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":618.54,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.74,"height":870.66,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-196753","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-426728"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-613709","top":223.58,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":618.54,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.74,"height":870.66,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-196753","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-426728"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-792297","top":223.58,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":618.54,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.74,"height":870.66,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-196753","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-426728"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-822733","top":223.59,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":618.55,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.58,"height":870.66,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-196753","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-426728"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-290686","top":223.44,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":618.28,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.81,"height":871,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-196753","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-426728"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-426728","name":"Pet's Accessories #2","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-196753","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-868683","name":"Group 3","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-939133","top":229.14,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1020.39,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.74,"height":870.66,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-868683","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-326085"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-987511","top":229.14,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1020.39,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.74,"height":870.66,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-868683","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-326085"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-231935","top":229.14,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1020.39,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.74,"height":870.66,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-868683","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-326085"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-811137","top":229.14,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1020.39,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.74,"height":870.66,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-868683","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-326085"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-339283","top":229.15,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1020.4,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.58,"height":870.66,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-868683","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-326085"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-123407","top":229,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1020.13,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.81,"height":871,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-868683","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-326085"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-326085","name":"Pet's Accessories #3","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-868683","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"}],"is_global":false,"positions":["template-layer","layer-619905","layer-547135","layer-530313","layer-510188","layer-972974","layer-937737","layer-527117","layer-104532","layer-486804","layer-179415","layer-839790","layer-426728","layer-305490","layer-361348","layer-613709","layer-792297","layer-822733","layer-290686","layer-196753","layer-773017","layer-326085","layer-939133","layer-987511","layer-231935","layer-811137","layer-339283","layer-123407","layer-868683","layer-395108"],"charge_enabled":false},{"id":"template-993282","name":"4","addons":[],"layers":[{"id":"layer-822756","top":46.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac9d80e282c7_large.webp","left":1245.94,"name":"home_ 1","type":"static-photo","width":561,"height":561,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"no_customization","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-759368","top":960.75,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac9d80e282c7_large.webp","left":-192.94,"name":"home_54","type":"static-photo","width":560.83,"height":560.83,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"no_customization","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-534662","top":1092.05,"left":376.26,"name":"Pet Name #1","text":"COCO","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":327.67,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":114.97,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":551.85,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-235097","top":93.83,"left":810.4,"name":"Pet Name #2","text":"MIA","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":327.37,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":115,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":905.17,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-178807","top":1392.13,"left":830.96,"name":"Pet Name #3","text":"LUNA","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":361.68,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":115,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":905.17,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-917563","top":906.94,"left":1251.33,"name":"Pet Name #4","text":"Orea","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":361.68,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":115,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":905.17,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-821027","top":421.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":189.88,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.93,"height":599.71,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-388177","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-207322"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-101915","top":421.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":189.88,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.93,"height":599.71,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-388177","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-207322"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-920080","top":421.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":189.88,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.93,"height":599.71,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-388177","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-207322"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-513745","top":421.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":189.88,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.93,"height":599.71,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-388177","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-207322"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-700713","top":421.07,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":189.88,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.76,"height":599.71,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-388177","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-207322"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-499068","top":421.11,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":186.81,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.99,"height":599.95,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-388177","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-207322"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-207322","name":"Pet's Accessories #1","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-388177","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-388177","name":"Group 1","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-759741","top":142.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.42,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.77,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-753477","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-908077"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-599852","top":142.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.42,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.77,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-753477","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-908077"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-564627","top":142.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.42,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.77,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-753477","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-908077"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-442368","top":142.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.42,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.77,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-753477","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-908077"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-274633","top":142.07,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.42,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.59,"height":599.77,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-753477","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-908077"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-634233","top":141.96,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.16,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.81,"height":600,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-753477","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-908077"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-908077","name":"Pet's Accessories #2","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-753477","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-753477","name":"Group 2","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-941218","top":745.76,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":640.76,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-375732","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-905717"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-989007","top":745.76,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":640.76,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-375732","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-905717"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-500047","top":745.76,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":640.76,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-375732","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-905717"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-857309","top":745.76,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":640.76,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-375732","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-905717"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-715824","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":640.78,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.57,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-375732","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-905717"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-258064","top":745.66,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":640.5,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.8,"height":600,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-375732","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-905717"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-905717","name":"Pet's Accessories #3","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-375732","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-375732","name":"Group 3","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-283359","top":223.54,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1044.46,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-745333","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-791721"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-497796","top":223.54,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1044.46,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-745333","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-791721"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-479920","top":223.54,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1044.46,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-745333","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-791721"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-846851","top":223.54,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1044.46,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-745333","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-791721"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-172227","top":223.55,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1044.48,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.57,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-745333","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-791721"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-829424","top":223.44,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1044.2,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.8,"height":600,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-745333","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-791721"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-791721","name":"Pet's Accessories #4","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-745333","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-745333","name":"Group 4","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true}],"visible":true,"is_global":false,"positions":["template-layer","layer-207322","layer-821027","layer-101915","layer-920080","layer-513745","layer-700713","layer-499068","layer-759368","layer-534662","layer-388177","layer-822756","layer-908077","layer-759741","layer-599852","layer-564627","layer-442368","layer-274633","layer-634233","layer-753477","layer-235097","layer-905717","layer-941218","layer-989007","layer-500047","layer-857309","layer-715824","layer-258064","layer-375732","layer-178807","layer-791721","layer-283359","layer-497796","layer-479920","layer-846851","layer-172227","layer-829424","layer-745333","layer-917563"],"charge_enabled":false},{"id":"template-528569","name":"5","addons":[],"layers":[{"id":"layer-747657","top":-0.59,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac9d80e282c7_large.webp","left":1262.61,"name":"home_ 1","type":"static-photo","width":561,"height":561,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"no_customization","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-316627","top":838.53,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac9d80e282c7_large.webp","left":-196.64,"name":"home_54","type":"static-photo","width":560.83,"height":560.83,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"no_customization","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-311289","top":93.58,"left":365.15,"name":"Pet Name #1","text":"COCO","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":327.67,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":114.97,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":551.85,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-258740","top":93.83,"left":810.4,"name":"Pet Name #2","text":"MIA","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":327.37,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":115,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":905.17,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-515974","top":93.58,"left":1242.07,"name":"Pet Name #3","text":"LUNA","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":361.68,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":115,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":905.17,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-681766","top":1406.94,"left":556.89,"name":"Pet Name #4","text":"Orea","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":361.68,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":115,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":905.17,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-333717","top":1406.58,"left":1029.12,"name":"Pet Name #5","text":"COOKIE","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":361.68,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":115,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":905.17,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-364090","top":141.99,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":186.18,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.93,"height":599.71,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-543374","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-896642"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-119726","top":141.99,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":186.18,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.93,"height":599.71,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-543374","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-896642"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-499580","top":141.99,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":186.18,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.93,"height":599.71,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-543374","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-896642"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-104656","top":141.99,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":186.18,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.93,"height":599.71,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-543374","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-896642"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-351363","top":142,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":186.18,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.76,"height":599.71,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-543374","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-896642"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-476587","top":142.04,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":183.11,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.99,"height":599.95,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-543374","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-896642"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-896642","name":"Pet's Accessories #1","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-543374","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-543374","name":"Group 1","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-954378","top":142.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.42,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.77,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-446497","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-631612"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-592490","top":142.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.42,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.77,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-446497","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-631612"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-223966","top":142.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.42,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.77,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-446497","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-631612"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-696601","top":142.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.42,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.77,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-446497","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-631612"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-148221","top":142.07,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.42,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.59,"height":599.77,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-446497","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-631612"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-943558","top":141.96,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.16,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.81,"height":600,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-446497","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-631612"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-631612","name":"Pet's Accessories #2","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-446497","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-446497","name":"Group 2","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-364261","top":142.09,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1044.25,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-689151","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-553114"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-987074","top":142.09,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1044.25,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-689151","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-553114"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-640266","top":142.09,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1044.25,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-689151","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-553114"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-297605","top":142.09,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1044.25,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-689151","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-553114"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-405443","top":142.1,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1044.27,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.57,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-689151","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-553114"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-419641","top":141.99,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1043.99,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.8,"height":600,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-689151","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-553114"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-553114","name":"Pet's Accessories #3","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-689151","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-689151","name":"Group 3","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-124184","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":348.16,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-552981","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-379289"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-441608","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":348.16,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-552981","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-379289"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-672660","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":348.16,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-552981","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-379289"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-212734","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":348.16,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-552981","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-379289"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-150196","top":745.78,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":348.18,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.57,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-552981","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-379289"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-877208","top":745.67,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":347.9,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.8,"height":600,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-552981","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-379289"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-379289","name":"Pet's Accessories #4","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-552981","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-552981","name":"Group 4","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-787232","name":"Group 5","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-858414","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":812.97,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-787232","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-554057"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-195006","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":812.97,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-787232","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-554057"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-516766","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":812.97,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-787232","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-554057"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-988445","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":812.97,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-787232","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-554057"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-853568","top":745.78,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":812.99,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.57,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-787232","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-554057"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-426785","top":745.67,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":812.71,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.8,"height":600,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-787232","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-554057"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-554057","name":"Pet's Accessories 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1","type":"static-photo","width":561,"height":561,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"no_customization","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-536090","top":820.01,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac9d80e282c7_large.webp","left":-191.09,"name":"home_54","type":"static-photo","width":560.83,"height":560.83,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"no_customization","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-221125","top":93.58,"left":365.15,"name":"Pet Name #1","text":"COCO","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":327.67,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":114.97,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":551.85,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-319755","top":93.83,"left":810.4,"name":"Pet Name #2","text":"MIA","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":327.37,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":115,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":905.17,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-898101","top":93.58,"left":1242.07,"name":"Pet Name #3","text":"LUNA","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":361.68,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":115,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":905.17,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-377562","top":1406.94,"left":307.14,"name":"Pet Name #4","text":"Orea","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":361.68,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":115,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":905.17,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-906330","top":1406.58,"left":760.87,"name":"Pet Name #5","text":"COOKIE","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":361.68,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":115,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":905.17,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-199796","top":1406.58,"left":1215.97,"name":"Pet Name #6","text":"MILO","type":"text","align":"center","color":"#aa0422","width":361.68,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"visible":true,"required":true,"max_length":12,"typography":{"size":100,"family":"Roboto","variant":"regular"},"custom_font":{"url":"users\/46473\/fonts\/6ac9dd3c64215.woff2","size":115,"family":"c67b988f-c740-4767-9d95-6ae744a599b1"},"curve_radius":905.17,"show_in_cart":true,"stroke_color":"#FF0000","stroke_width":1,"color_opacity":null,"stroke_layers":[{"color":"#FF0000","width":1}],"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","form_input_type":"text","typography_type":"custom","autoscale_enabled":true,"background_enabled":true,"customization_type":"normal","form_input_textcase":"uppercase"},{"id":"layer-730377","top":141.99,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":186.18,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.93,"height":599.71,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-229536","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-332919"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-218825","top":141.99,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":186.18,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.93,"height":599.71,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-229536","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-332919"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-835119","top":141.99,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":186.18,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.93,"height":599.71,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-229536","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-332919"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-738810","top":141.99,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":186.18,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.93,"height":599.71,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-229536","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-332919"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-106124","top":142,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":186.18,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.76,"height":599.71,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-229536","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-332919"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-878445","top":142.04,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":183.11,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":396.99,"height":599.95,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-229536","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-332919"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-332919","name":"Pet's Accessories #1","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-229536","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-229536","name":"Group 1","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-419067","top":142.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.42,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.77,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-603570","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-595779"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-369502","top":142.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.42,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.77,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-603570","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-595779"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-568294","top":142.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.42,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.77,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-603570","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-595779"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-794708","top":142.06,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.42,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.77,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-603570","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-595779"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-498351","top":142.07,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.42,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.59,"height":599.77,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-603570","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-595779"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-349342","top":141.96,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":607.16,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.81,"height":600,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-603570","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-595779"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-595779","name":"Pet's Accessories #2","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-603570","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-603570","name":"Group 2","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-545743","top":142.09,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1044.25,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-859043","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-798664"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-223723","top":142.09,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1044.25,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-859043","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-798664"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-847538","top":142.09,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1044.25,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-859043","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-798664"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-973112","top":142.09,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1044.25,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-859043","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-798664"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-530932","top":142.1,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1044.27,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.57,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-859043","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-798664"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-966048","top":141.99,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1043.99,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.8,"height":600,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-859043","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-798664"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-798664","name":"Pet's Accessories #3","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-859043","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-859043","name":"Group 3","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-649878","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":120.38,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-889954","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-496509"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-587450","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":120.38,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-889954","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-496509"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-755717","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":120.38,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-889954","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-496509"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-709753","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":120.38,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-889954","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-496509"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-485262","top":745.78,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":120.4,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.57,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-889954","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-496509"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-349009","top":745.67,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":120.12,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.8,"height":600,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-889954","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-496509"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-496509","name":"Pet's Accessories #4","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-889954","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-889954","name":"Group 4","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-286820","name":"Group 5","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-312807","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":568.53,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-286820","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-568461"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-597018","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":568.53,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-286820","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-568461"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-207800","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":568.53,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-286820","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-568461"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-563144","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":568.53,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-286820","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-568461"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-490975","top":745.78,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":568.55,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.57,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-286820","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-568461"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-578516","top":745.67,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":568.27,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.8,"height":600,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-286820","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-568461"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-568461","name":"Pet's Accessories #5","type":"additional-option","locked":false,"visible":true,"group_id":"layer-286820","required":true,"schema_version":2,"additional_option":2699450,"customization_type":"normal"},{"id":"layer-531372","name":"Group 6","type":"group","locked":false,"opened":false,"visible":true},{"id":"layer-235621","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1000.01,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the example images only as references for the costume and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D devil pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background and do not show the tail.\n\n\u3010Core Requirement: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye color and size, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nAll visible areas outside the costume must remain faithful to the original pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments rather than changing the facial features or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nKeep the posture relaxed and anatomically plausible. The head, neck, and torso should connect smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to achieve this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and body proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the costume to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Devil Costume\u3011\nAdd a pair of small, bright-red devil horns on top of the head. They should be smooth and three-dimensional, extending upward and curving slightly inward. Scale them to the pet\u2019s head without replacing or obscuring the original ears. Do not show a headband.\n\nDress the pet in a high-collared cape with a black outer surface and deep-red lining. The raised collar should spread naturally to both sides below the cheeks without obscuring the facial features.\nLet the cape drape from the shoulders down the sides of the seated body, with its hem ending near the paws. Keep the front open to reveal the chest and abdominal fur, front legs, and paws.\nThe cape must not press onto the paws or interfere with their natural placement.\n\nTie a delicate bow at the front of the neck using narrow red ribbons, with two ribbon tails hanging naturally down the chest.\nFollow the examples for a cute, refined overall design. Do not add fangs, wings, weapons, flames, or glowing red eyes.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, horns, cape, and ribbons must form one coherent, naturally rendered figure rather than appearing pasted together.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Scale the accessories to the pet\u2019s build and final seated pose.\n\nNest the horn bases naturally within the fur, allowing a few hairs to overlap the attachment edges. Add soft contact shadows without floating horns or harsh seams.\n\nFit the cape to the neck, shoulders, and seated silhouette, with believable fabric thickness, gravity-driven draping, and folds.\nAt the neckline and ribbon contact points, show slight fur compression and a few hairs overlapping the fabric. Avoid clipping or unnaturally straight-cut fur edges.\n\nThe bow and ribbons should rest naturally against the cape and chest fur. They must not float, constrict the neck, or create abnormal indentations.\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin so the collar and bow do not push the head upward or crowd the face.\n\nPreserve plausible overlaps and contact shadows. Avoid strong red reflections that noticeably change the pet\u2019s original coat colors.\nNatural integration must not rely on blurred edges. Keep the fur, horns, and fabric clearly distinguishable, without white fringes, black fringes, halos, or cutout artifacts.\n\n\u3010Tail: Completely Hidden\u3011\nDo not show any part of the tail, including beside the body, near the paws, between the legs, or beneath the cape.\nDo not leave a visible tail tip or a tail-shaped tuft, and do not add a devil tail.\n\nConceal the tail naturally behind the body or within the cape. Preserve a complete, believable torso, hindquarters, and cape silhouette without cut-off edges, holes, or abnormal deformation.\nThe tail should appear naturally hidden, not removed from the anatomy.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft, layered fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nKeep the eyes at their original size with restrained natural highlights. Give the nose subtle texture, the red horns a smooth glossy finish, and the black-and-red cape a soft satin sheen.\n\nCreate charm through the original expression, costume, and rendering rather than changing facial features or body proportions.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, an overall plastic appearance, excessive smoothing, or excessive sharpening.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the entire front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the complete horns, ears, cape, body, and visible paws, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, red devil horns, black-and-red high-collared cape, and red ribbon bow. The tail must remain completely hidden.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, delicate fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject to support natural integration. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, build, coat colors, and markings. The examples determine only the devil costume, composition, and rendering style.\nDo not copy the example pet\u2019s face shape or coat colors.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with the tail completely hidden.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, horns, cape, and ribbons form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-531372","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538610],"element":"layer-197316"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-523199","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1000.01,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the wizard costume examples only as references for the outfit and rendering style. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D wizard pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Use a transparent background. The original tail may remain naturally visible.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, facial features, eye size and color, eye spacing, ear shape, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, coat colors, markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, enlarge the eyes, shorten the muzzle, round out the face, or substitute a generic cute-pet face.\nThe examples provide costume and rendering references only. Do not transfer the example cat\u2019s appearance to my pet.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position. Achieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by changing the eye shape, forcing the eyes wider open, or adding a smile.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Facing Forward\u3011\nShow the pet sitting naturally upright, with its chest, shoulders, and torso facing the camera. Keep its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking naturally into the camera.\nDo not show a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, standing, lying down, or human-like sitting.\n\nThe posture should be composed and relaxed, not stiff. Keep the head, neck, and torso naturally connected, with relaxed shoulders and a stable center of gravity. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or lift the chin excessively.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body.\n\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nDo not force the paws together, splay them excessively, cross the legs, or leave the paws floating.\nAllow subtle natural differences rather than rigid mirror-image symmetry.\n\nThe hind paws may remain partially hidden by the body or cape. Do not force all four paws into view or deliberately expose the paw pads.\nAdjust the original photo\u2019s pose as needed to create this natural front-facing seated position while preserving the pet\u2019s identity and anatomical proportions.\n\nEstablish a plausible seated body first, then fit the hat, cape, and bow to it. Do not distort the pet to accommodate a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Wizard Costume\u3011\n\n1. Purple Wizard Hat\n\nPlace a purple, wide-brimmed, pointed wizard hat naturally on the pet\u2019s head. The crown should be tall with a few soft folds, and the tip should bend gently downward toward the right side of the image. Give the broad brim a natural curve and believable fabric thickness.\n\nWrap a black hatband around the base of the crown, with a warm copper-colored buckle at the front. The buckle should be square with rounded corners.\n\nScale the hat to the pet\u2019s head. Keep the brim above the eyes so both eyes and the main facial features remain fully visible.\nAdapt the fit to the actual ear shape: upright ears may emerge naturally at the sides, while floppy ears should hang comfortably. Do not change the ears\u2019 shape, force their position, or create extra ears.\n\n2. Black Short Cape with Bright Purple Trim\n\nUse a black cape covering the shoulders and sides of the upper chest, ending approximately halfway down the seated body. Leave the lower body, front legs, and paws visible. Do not turn it into a floor-length robe.\n\nThe collar should rise slightly and curve naturally around the neck. Add continuous, refined bright-purple edging around the collar and the rounded side hems.\n\nThe trim must be a vivid, relatively saturated violet purple, noticeably brighter than the dark purple in the reference, with a clear contrast against the black cape.\nAvoid dark plum, grayish purple, burgundy purple, or nearly black purple. Do not make the trim fluorescent or glowing.\n\nKeep the cape open at the front to reveal the central chest fur. Let the fabric drape naturally from the shoulders and upper back, following the seated posture.\n\n3. Bright Purple Bow\n\nTie a bright-purple fabric bow at the front of the neck, matching the cape trim. Place the knot at the center, with softly full loops and two ribbon tails hanging naturally over the chest.\n\nUse a coordinating purple for the hat. Keep the cape trim and bow bright and clearly visible. Their shaded areas may deepen naturally, but their overall color must not become dull or dark.\n\nDo not add devil horns, red accessories, a wand, pumpkins, wings, text, or other props.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration: Essential\u3011\nThe pet, hat, cape, and bow must look like one consistently rendered subject wearing a believable outfit, without pasted-on elements, crude compositing, or floating accessories.\n\nMaintain consistent light direction, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across all elements. Fit the costume to the original pet\u2019s build and the final seated pose.\n\nLet the hat rest naturally on the head, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows. Its weight and balance should be believable. The brim may cast a gentle shadow on the forehead, but it must not obscure the eyes or prevent the original coat colors from being recognized.\n\nKeep the overlap between the ears and hat brim anatomically plausible. Avoid clipping, duplicated ears, or crude openings.\n\nThe cape should rest comfortably on the neck and shoulders, with folds responding to gravity and the seated body. Allow a few fur tips to overlap the neckline naturally.\nThe bow and ties should sit against the cape and chest without floating, sinking into the fur, or constricting the neck.\n\nLeave comfortable space beneath the chin. Do not let the raised collar or bow push the head upward or crowd the face.\nKeep the cape clear of the weight-bearing paws so the seated pose remains easy to read.\n\nClearly distinguish fur, fabric, and the metal buckle. Avoid blurred seams, white fringes, black fringes, or cutout halos.\nDo not allow purple reflected light to noticeably recolor the pet\u2019s fur.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain visible beside or behind the body, or near the paws if anatomically natural. Preserve the length, thickness, colors, markings, and fur texture visible in the source photo.\n\nConnect the tail plausibly to the body, with natural overlap between the tail and cape. Do not let it intersect the fabric, duplicate it, exaggerate it, or add an extra tail.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. If it is naturally hidden by the seated pose, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Rendering Style\u3011\nUse a semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with fine, soft fur, gentle studio lighting, and natural three-dimensional shading.\nPreserve the original coat texture. Show detail without excessive sharpening, restrained natural eye highlights, and subtle nose texture.\n\nGive the hat and cape a fine woven-fabric texture with a soft sheen. Use moderate metallic reflections on the copper buckle.\nCreate charm through the pet\u2019s original expression, the costume, and soft rendering\u2014not by enlarging the head or eyes or shortening the limbs.\nAvoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, or excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Present the full front-facing seated figure without pronounced overhead or low angles or wide-angle distortion.\n\nInclude the entire hat tip, broad brim, naturally visible ears, cape, body, paws, and any visible tail. Leave a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, and leashes.\nThe final image should contain only the pet, purple wizard hat, black short cape with bright-purple trim, and bright-purple bow.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel and clean, natural fur edges.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The wizard examples determine only the outfit design and rendering style.\n\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, hat, cape, and bow form a balanced, comfortable, harmonious figure.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish the front-facing appearance or key markings, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing distinctive features.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_uHRaokFQXVghu0Y4.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-531372","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538595],"element":"layer-197316"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-205590","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1000.01,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the ghost costume examples as styling references. Transform the same pet into a \u201csemi-realistic 3D ghost pet\u201d: shown in a natural, full-body, front-facing upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Drape it in a plain, undecorated white sheet against a transparent background. The sheet should cover approximately the upper three-quarters of the seated pet, leaving roughly the bottom quarter exposed.\n\nCore effect: a soft, loose, opaque white sheet resting naturally over the pet. The only holes are the two eye openings. The ears, nose, and mouth remain completely hidden beneath the fabric. The ears and muzzle create soft raised contours through their underlying volume, without becoming exposed. The sheet drapes naturally rather than clinging to the body or precisely tracing facial features, ear contours, and anatomy.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its eye color, size, shape, spacing, eyelid contours, and pupil characteristics, along with its underlying head structure, ear shape, muzzle length, build, and the original colors, markings, and fur texture of all exposed areas.\nDo not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the face of an example pet.\nConcealed features should serve only as references for the underlying anatomy. They do not need to be fully visible through the sheet. Do not expose the nose or ears to make the pet more recognizable.\n\n\u3010Draping: Loose and Natural, Not Form-Fitting\u3011\nUse one continuous sheet draped naturally over the pet, not a bodysuit, face mask, fitted hood, or anatomically molded shell.\nAllow sufficient fabric ease. The sheet should be supported at only a few points, such as the crown, ears, the most prominent part of the muzzle, and the shoulders or upper back. Between these points, it should bridge and hang naturally, allowing space between the fabric and the body.\n\nKeep the overall silhouette simplified, soft, and continuous. Do not trace the forehead, eye sockets, cheeks, nostrils, chin, neck, chest, abdomen, or legs individually.\nDo not show facial features as though the fabric were pressed tightly against the skin. Avoid tight clusters of small wrinkles around the nose, cheeks, or ear bases.\nBelow the head, the sheet may fall past the chin and neck toward the shoulders and sides without visibly cinching inward at the neck or waist.\nMaintain believable fabric weight and gravity while avoiding a rigid tent-like shell, a hollow pointed hood, or unsupported floating fabric.\n\n\u3010Nose: Completely Hidden, with Only a Soft Raised Contour\u3011\nThe nose must remain beneath a continuous layer of opaque white fabric. Do not create a nose opening, expose the nose tip, nostrils, or sides of the nose, or allow its dark color to show through.\nThe mouth and tongue must also remain fully covered, with no mouth opening.\n\nAt the original nose-tip position, let the underlying muzzle gently push the fabric forward into a broad, rounded, moderately visible bulge.\nThis bulge represents the volume supporting the fabric, not the detailed shape of the nose itself. Do not reproduce a sharply defined nose outline, triangular nose surface, nostril indentations, or nasal details.\n\nBlend the raised area smoothly into the surrounding fabric without tightening the cloth around the nose\u2019s edges. Below the nose tip, the sheet may fall directly downward rather than hugging the mouth, chin, or neck.\nDo not exaggerate the bulge into a long point, sculpt a separate white nose, draw a nose or mouth line on the fabric, or simply recolor an exposed nose white.\n\nThe surface of the bulge must retain the same neutral-white color and woven texture as the rest of the sheet. Describe its volume only through soft light and shading.\nPreserve the actual muzzle length as underlying support, while allowing the loose fabric to soften and simplify its outer contour.\n\n\u3010Ears: Fully Covered, with Softened Contours\u3011\nBoth ears must remain completely beneath the sheet, including their bases, outer edges, and tips. Do not expose fur, inner-ear skin, or ear colors, and do not create ear openings.\n\nFor upright ears: let the ears support two raised areas in their correct positions. Their height and direction should reflect the original ear shapes, but the fabric must soften their contours rather than cling to the ears or reveal inner-ear depressions.\nThe fabric between the ears should bridge naturally with a slight sag. Outside the ears, it should descend along the sides of the head without tightening separately around each ear base.\n\nFor floppy, folded, or semi-upright ears: follow their actual volume with soft lateral contours or lower raised areas. Do not force them into two pointed ear shapes.\n\nThe raised ear contours must be continuous parts of the same sheet, not separate white ears sewn on, attached, or growing from the fabric. Avoid horn-like points, sharp cones, or individual fitted ear covers.\n\n\u3010Eyes: Preserve Their Appearance, with No Eye Decorations\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes. Preserve their shape, relative size, eyelid openness, iris colors, pupil characteristics, and expression.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge, round, or protrude the eyes, force them wider open, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nDo not add eyeliner, eyeshadow, false eyelashes, smoky makeup, dark circles, face paint, outlines, or other eye decorations.\nFaithfully retain the original eyelid edges and surrounding fur colors without darkening, thickening, or expanding them.\nDo not create button eyes, glass-marble eyes, concentric-ring eyes, pasted-on eyes, or toy-like eyes.\n\n\u3010Eye Openings: Exactly Two Plain Holes\u3011\nCreate one softly rounded, eye-shaped opening over each eye. Follow the original eye shape and make each opening slightly larger than the complete eye area so it reveals the actual eye, eyelids, inner and outer corners, and a small amount of surrounding fur.\nFit the openings to the original eyes; do not alter the eyes to fill the holes.\nDo not reveal only the irises and pupils, replace the eyelids with fabric edges, or paint eyes onto the sheet.\n\nThe edges should follow the fabric\u2019s natural contours without gripping the eyeballs or forming rigid rings.\nKeep the edges white, showing only subtle fabric thickness and soft contact shadows. Do not add black outlines, colored trim, embroidery, decorative stitching, or heavy ring-shaped shadows.\nSmall natural gaps near the openings are acceptable, but the sheet must not appear to float in front of the face like a detached mask.\n\n\u3010Sheet Surface: Completely Undecorated\u3011\nThe sheet has only two eye openings, with no nose, mouth, ear, or other additional holes.\nIts surface should show only woven texture, natural contours, folds, and lighting.\nDo not add eyebrows, eyelashes, eyeliner, nose or mouth graphics, smiley faces, text, symbols, patterns, patches, lace, bows, or decorative borders.\n\n\u3010Sheet Length: Expose Approximately the Bottom Quarter\u3011\nUse the seated pet\u2019s total height from the top of its head to the bottoms of its paws as the reference, excluding empty space in the frame. Cover approximately the upper three-quarters and expose roughly the bottom quarter.\nThe hem should end approximately one-quarter of the total height above the paw bottoms, revealing part of the lower body, the lower front legs, and the complete paws\u2014not merely the toes.\n\nKeep the front and side hems at reasonably similar heights, with a gently undulating, natural edge. The sides must not touch the ground, pool, or form a long train.\nThe exposed body should appear below the hem, not through additional leg holes or side cutouts.\nEstablish a plausible seated pose first, then adjust the sheet length. Do not change the body or limb lengths to achieve the coverage ratio.\n\n\u3010Folds and Fabric\u3011\nUse soft, lightweight to medium-weight, opaque matte fabric with a subtle, fine weave.\nDo not use stretchy, skin-tight material or create a suctioned-on, vacuum-wrapped, or wet-cloth effect. Avoid the appearance of a heavy blanket, stiff paper, rubber, or plastic.\n\nFavor a moderate number of broad, relaxed vertical folds, with natural variations in width and depth.\nAllow a few gentle transitional folds across the crown and between the ears, with the fabric falling under gravity below the shoulders.\nDo not trace every body part with dense, fine wrinkles, impose mechanical symmetry, or stretch the sheet into taut straight planes.\n\nThe sheet must be clean, neutral white\u2014not beige, cream, ivory, or yellowish warm white.\nUse neutral soft lighting and pale-gray shading to describe volume, retaining highlight detail without yellow or brown casts or overexposure.\nThe fabric must completely conceal the original colors of the nose, ears, and covered fur, revealing only softly suggested underlying volume.\n\n\u3010Pose and Tail\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Preserve the original eye shape and expression.\nKeep the head, neck, and torso anatomically connected, the weight balanced, the front paws resting on the same support plane, and the hind legs comfortably folded. Do not force all four paws into view.\nAdjust the original pose as needed so the anatomy, fabric coverage, and draping work together naturally rather than mechanically copying the original posture.\n\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings; do not add or duplicate tails.\nLet it emerge naturally from beneath or behind the hem without an additional hole. If the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent it.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Natural Integration\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style with clear volume, delicate fur, and natural tonal transitions.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, and sharpness across the pet, sheet, eyes, and paws.\nMake the fabric\u2019s support points, hanging sections, and overlaps physically plausible. Avoid clipping, floating fabric, crude compositing, or blurred areas used to hide poor connections.\nKeep shadows around the eye openings gentle so they do not resemble eyeliner or dark circles.\nCreate charm through the loosely draped ghost costume and the pet\u2019s original expression, without altering facial features or exaggerating body proportions.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Include the covered crown, raised ear contours, both sides of the sheet, the hem, exposed body, paws, and any naturally visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nRemove the original background, people, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash. Do not add other accessories.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pet and its plain white-sheet ghost costume.\nInclude no scenery, ground graphics, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border. Retain appropriate contact shadows within the subject.\nDo not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Final Priorities\u3011\nThe original photo determines the pet\u2019s identity and underlying anatomy. The sheet should drape naturally according to gravity and its support points, without tightly revealing every anatomical detail.\n\nAbove all:\nThe nose remains completely hidden, producing only a broad, soft raised contour in the fabric.\nThe ears remain fully covered, creating appropriately softened raised contours in their correct positions.\nThe entire sheet hangs loosely rather than clinging to the facial features or body.\nIts only holes are the two eye openings, and it has no decorations.\n\nExpose approximately the bottom quarter of the body. Keep the pet naturally seated upright, facing forward, and looking into the camera, with a harmonious overall result.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":false}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-531372","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538616],"element":"layer-197316"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-845250","top":745.77,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1000.01,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.73,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the mummy costume examples as references for the styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D mummy pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing, upright seated pose, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Wrap both the head and body in fabric bandages, and use a transparent background. The pose, anatomy, and bandage arrangement must look natural and harmonious, as though the same pet were comfortably wearing a mummy costume.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo, not merely another pet of the same breed.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, nose shape and color, muzzle length, head-to-body proportions, build, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten or recolor the coat, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features and body type of the example pets.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nSeat the pet naturally in a position appropriate to its anatomy, with its chest, abdomen, and shoulders facing generally forward, its head comfortably upright, its nose pointing toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens.\nDo not show it sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe seated pose should be stable and relaxed, not stiff. Connect the head, neck, and torso naturally, with comfortable shoulders. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest securely, with the hind legs bent naturally beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest firmly on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, fur, and bandages. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws between the front paws or deliberately display the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to preserve identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to achieve a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nEstablish a complete, anatomically plausible body and seated pose first, then arrange the bandages around it. Do not distort the body to showcase the bandages or paste the head and paws onto a fixed template.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nThe original pet photo is the sole reference for the eyes.\nPreserve their actual size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, tilt, eyelid contours, degree of openness, iris colors, and pupil characteristics.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not enlarge or round the eyes, force them wider open, make them look like protruding glass marbles, impose perfect symmetry, or add exaggerated highlights.\n\nPreserve the original expression and mouth position, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features or expression.\n\n\u3010Art Style: Soft and Adorable\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style. Simplify very fine textures moderately and reduce harsh shadows and excessive photorealistic sharpness to create a friendly animated-character aesthetic.\n\nRender fluffy, soft fur with smoothly connected tufts and a natural silhouette. Preserve the original coat texture and markings; do not turn the fur into plastic or a uniformly smooth surface.\nUse bright, soft, neutral studio lighting, smooth tonal transitions, gentle shadows, and clean colors.\nCreate charm through soft materials, the pet\u2019s original expression, a natural upright seated pose, and a few playful loose bandage ends\u2014not through enlarged eyes, an oversized head, shortened limbs, or altered breed characteristics.\nThe overall effect should be a cute Halloween costume. Do not add an injured, distressed, frightened, or sinister appearance.\n\n\u3010Head Bandages: Required\u3011\nWrap one or two layers of soft, wide, off-white fabric bandages around the crown and upper forehead. Let one diagonal strip overlap a horizontal strip slightly to create a clearly recognizable mummy head wrap.\n\nThe bandages should follow the head\u2019s curvature and continue naturally around the sides and back, with their direction matching the head\u2019s orientation in the front-facing seated pose. They must not look like short strips floating on the forehead or form a bulky helmet or turban.\nLeave some forehead fur and original markings visible so the pet remains recognizable.\nKeep the lower edge of the head wrapping above the eyes, fully exposing both eyes, eyelids, eye corners, nose, mouth, cheeks, and whiskers. Do not obstruct vision or run a strip across the eyes or the center of the muzzle.\n\nPreserve the original ear shapes: upright ears should emerge naturally outside the bandages, with the strips routed around their bases; floppy ears should hang naturally at the sides without being pulled upward or reshaped into pointed ears.\nThe head bandages should fit comfortably, with slight fur compression and soft contact shadows, without changing the head\u2019s shape.\nDo not cover one eye or create an eye patch or an injury-treatment appearance.\n\n\u3010Body Bandages\u3011\nWrap one or two loose layers around the base of the neck, below the chin, following the actual neck and shoulder contours. Do not constrict the neck, obscure the jawline, build up a thick scarf, or prop up the head.\nCross several wide strips diagonally over the chest and add a moderate amount of horizontal wrapping around the abdomen, creating natural, clearly readable overlaps.\n\nThe strips should follow the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and body contours created by the seated pose. Adapt their widths and spacing to the individual pet\u2019s build rather than mechanically copying the wrapping angles in the examples.\nLeave noticeable areas of fur visible between the strips so the original colors and markings on the chest, shoulders, and sides remain identifiable.\nDo not completely encase the body in a solid bundle or turn the wrapping into a jumpsuit, armor, or plaster cast.\n\nWrap each front leg separately with a few turns of narrower bandages, following the actual direction of that leg and using widths appropriate to its length.\nLeave the front paws and fur around the toes fully exposed. Do not bind the legs together, bridge the gap between them, or change their thickness or length.\nAllow natural joint movement; the wrapping must not make the front legs look like rigid cylinders.\n\nA small amount of wrapping may extend over the visible hind legs and sides, but it must follow the bent legs and their natural overlaps. Do not rotate the hind paws merely to display the bandages.\n\nLeave a few short loose ends at the shoulders, sides, or outer front legs. They should hang or curve gently under gravity and have believable attachment points.\nKeep them moderately short. They must not cover the face, become trapped under weight-bearing paws, interfere with the seated pose, or form numerous long strips flying in midair.\n\n\u3010Bandage Color and Material\u3011\nUse clean off-white or pale ivory with a slight warm undertone, not bright yellow, dark brown, or dirty gray.\nThe material should resemble soft, finely woven cotton gauze, with moderate thickness, slight wrinkles, and a subtle weave.\nDo not use large-mesh transparent medical gauze. Avoid the appearance of smooth ribbon, paper strips, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\nKeep the edges neat, allowing only a little fine fraying. Do not make them ragged or heavily distressed.\nDo not add blood, wounds, stains, decay, or other horror elements.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nEvery strip should look physically wrapped around the same pet, with a continuous path, clear layering, and a fit that changes naturally with the body\u2019s contours.\nStrips passing around the sides should continue plausibly toward the back. They must not end without explanation, pass through the body, or merge arbitrarily with other strips.\nWrinkles, tension, looseness, and hanging ends should respond to the pose, contact points, and gravity rather than forming mechanically uniform patterns.\n\nAt contact points, show slight fur compression, soft contact shadows, and a few naturally protruding hairs, without deep indentations or changes to the body shape.\nGive the bandage edges plausible thickness. They must not float or resemble colored lines painted onto the fur.\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet and the head, torso, and leg bandages. Avoid crude compositing, white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\nThe result should look like a pet sitting comfortably in its costume, with a smooth head-to-neck connection, balanced weight, anatomically sound limbs, and bandages that form a complete, harmonious design with the body.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its actual shape, length, colors, and markings. Do not force bandages onto the tail.\nPosition it to suit the upright seated pose without interfering with the paws. Do not add or duplicate tails.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level, showing the entire front-facing seated figure. Avoid pronounced overhead or low angles and wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, head bandages, body, naturally visible paws, loose bandage ends, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin. Do not crop the subject or include interface elements, borders, or other graphics from the reference screenshots.\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent, plausible implied ground plane.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, and other objects. Remove existing clothing, collars, leashes, and scarves, and do not automatically copy other accessories from the examples.\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with mummy bandages around its head and body.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, eyes, facial features, expression, coat colors, and body type. The examples determine only the bandage styling, soft and adorable rendering style, and composition.\nThe final pet must be naturally seated upright and facing forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. Adjust the original pose as needed, prioritizing sound anatomy, well-fitting bandages, and overall harmony rather than mechanically reproducing the original posture.\nIf stylization conflicts with preserving the pet\u2019s appearance, prioritize the original appearance.\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_R0gbiKrwOHzbVZHH.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-531372","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538634],"element":"layer-197316"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-207283","top":745.78,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":1000.03,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.57,"height":599.76,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the pumpkin costume references only for the design, colors, materials, and visual style. Transform the same pet into an exquisitely rendered, adorable \u201cpumpkin pet\u201d: a full-body, front-facing, upright seated figure, with its head facing the camera and both eyes looking directly into the lens.\n\nInclude an orange pumpkin hood, a naturally integrated pumpkin-shaped body costume, a green leaf collar, and a golden-orange bow. Use a transparent background. The anatomy, pose, pumpkin volume, and accessories must work together naturally, with comfortable proportions and no crowded or compressed areas.\n\n\u3010Pet Identity and Appearance\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nPreserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, eye color, coat colors, markings, and fur texture.\nRepresent short, long, or curly fur according to the original pet\u2019s actual characteristics. Do not substitute the appearance of the example pets, whiten the coat, alter the markings, shorten the muzzle, or give every pet a generic rounded face.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features rather than mirroring them.\n\nPreserve the original eye shape, relative size, spacing, eyelid contours, and iris colors. Natural, restrained highlights are acceptable, but do not enlarge the eyes or turn them into glass marbles or buttons.\nKeep the original expression and mouth position, including a naturally visible tongue if present. Do not deliberately add a smile or alter the mouth corners.\nCreate charm through soft rendering, delicate fur, and rounded pumpkin forms rather than redesigning the pet\u2019s face.\n\n\u3010Pose: Front-Facing Upright Sitting, Looking Directly into the Camera\u3011\nShow the entire pet sitting naturally upright, viewed directly from the front. The chest, shoulders, and torso should face the camera, with the head comfortably upright, the nose pointing toward the lens, and both eyes looking directly into the camera.\n\nKeep the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Do not use a three-quarter view, a sideways seated pose, a turned-back head, or a pronounced overhead or low-angle perspective.\n\nThe pose must remain relaxed and anatomically natural. Connect the head, neck, and torso smoothly, with relaxed shoulders and the hindquarters resting securely. Do not elongate the neck, force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, or make the pet sit like a human.\n\nBoth front legs should descend naturally from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same implied ground plane, spaced appropriately for the pet\u2019s chest width.\nAllow subtle natural differences in paw placement without crossing the legs, splaying them excessively, forcing the paws together, or imposing rigid mirror symmetry.\n\nThe hind legs should bend comfortably beside or slightly behind the body. They may remain partially hidden. Do not force all four paws into view, crowd the hind paws between the front paws, or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nAchieve direct eye contact by adjusting head orientation and gaze direction, not by changing eye shape or expression.\nThe original photo establishes identity, not a fixed pose. Adjust limb placement, balance, and tail position as needed to create a convincing front-facing seated figure.\n\n\u3010Overall Design and Proportions\u3011\nCreate a balanced silhouette with a pumpkin hood above and a rounded pumpkin-shaped torso below, connected naturally by a green leaf collar and bow.\n\nEstablish the pet\u2019s natural seated anatomy first, then shape the pumpkin body around its actual shoulders, rib cage, abdomen, and hips.\nMaintain a comfortable torso length and natural limb proportions. The figure should feel balanced and spacious, never compressed or squeezed into a round shell.\n\nThe pumpkin torso should be rounded but not perfectly spherical. Adapt its height, width, and depth to the individual pet\u2019s build. A gently elongated shape or softly tapered lower section is preferable to an oversized ball that crowds the limbs.\n\nKeep the head, neck, shoulders, and torso clearly connected. Leave enough room beneath the chin for the leaf collar and bow to rest comfortably.\nAvoid a floating head, an elongated neck, a head sunken into the body, or a pumpkin torso so large that it overwhelms the face.\n\nIf the design looks crowded, reduce or reshape the pumpkin volume and scale down the accessories. Do not shorten the legs, widen the stance, or compress the pet\u2019s body to make everything fit.\n\n\u3010Orange Pumpkin Hood\u3011\nConstruct the hood from full, rounded vertical pumpkin lobes separated by soft grooves. Use a bright, warm pumpkin orange.\nProvide a broad, softly rounded front opening shaped to fit the original pet\u2019s face, fully revealing the eyes, nose, mouth, cheeks, and chin.\n\nAlign the hood opening with the face so both point directly toward the camera.\nThe rim should follow the face comfortably, with a few fur tips overlapping its edge and soft contact shadows. Do not squeeze the cheeks, cut off the whiskers, form a rigid circular frame, or make the face look pasted onto a pumpkin.\nAllow appropriate room for the original mouth position and any naturally visible tongue.\n\nPlace a curved green pumpkin stem at the top center. Give it a moderately thick base, fine lengthwise ridges, and a gentle bend to one side. Its base should connect convincingly to the hood, and its size should remain proportionate.\n\nAdapt the hood to the actual ears. Upright ears may emerge naturally on either side near the top; floppy ears may hang along the sides or rest comfortably within the hood.\nDo not alter ear shapes, add pointed ears, duplicate ears, or create implausible intersections.\n\n\u3010Pumpkin Body: Naturally Integrated and Uncrowded\u3011\nShape the lower pumpkin form around the pet\u2019s seated torso so the entire figure reads as one coherent character. It must not resemble a separate pumpkin placed in front of the pet, a rigid sphere with limbs inserted into it, or an oversized shell swallowing the body.\n\nDistribute the pumpkin volume along the torso, with softly rounded sides and a gently tapering lower contour.\nAvoid an excessively bulging chest, an oversized belly, or a thick lower rim crowded against the paws.\nThe vertical lobes should flow with the torso\u2019s curvature rather than forming equally inflated segments. Their grooves should define the pumpkin shape without making the body appear rigid.\n\nProvide comfortable clearance around both front legs. Position each opening according to the actual leg anatomy and direction, allowing a smooth transition from the covered upper leg to the visible fur.\nUse subtle, softly contoured edges rather than thick rings, tight cuffs, deep sockets, or sharply cut holes. Add a few overlapping fur tips and gentle contact shadows to make the junctions natural.\n\nReveal enough of the lower front legs to maintain believable proportions. Both front paws must remain fully visible and rest comfortably on the same implied ground plane.\nPreserve a natural gap between the front legs. Do not fill that space with an oversized pumpkin lobe, force the legs apart, or squeeze them together.\n\nLet the lower pumpkin contour rise gently around the leg openings and follow the abdomen naturally. It must not press onto the paws, hang so low that it crowds the ground, or create an unnatural orange wedge between the legs.\nThe hindquarters and any visible hind paws should fit comfortably within the seated silhouette. Do not push extra paws forward merely to make them visible.\n\nThe pumpkin form should blend naturally into the pet\u2019s overall silhouette while keeping fur and pumpkin materials clearly distinguishable. Do not blur the junctions, recolor fur orange, or erase anatomy to hide poor transitions.\n\nUse the same warm orange as the hood, with a refined matte finish and subtle fine surface texture. Keep the form full and smooth, without sagging folds or exaggerated seams.\nAvoid shiny plastic, balloon-like surfaces, hard ceramic, or coarse vegetable skin.\n\nKeep the pumpkin surface simple. Do not add a jack-o\u2019-lantern face, carvings, internal lighting, or a separate pumpkin in front of the pet.\n\n\u3010Green Leaf Collar\u3011\nArrange a modest ring of green leaves between the hood and pumpkin body, following the neck and shoulder contours.\nLet the leaves spread naturally toward the sides and upper chest, with slight variations in size, gentle overlaps, soft tips, fine veins, and moderate thickness.\n\nThe collar should rest on the shoulders and upper edge of the pumpkin body, draping slightly with the underlying curves. It must not float like a horizontal disk, push against the chin, or obscure the cheeks.\nKeep the leaf arrangement light enough to preserve a clear head-to-body connection. Do not use excessive foliage to conceal structural problems.\n\nGive the leaves believable attachment points without unnatural intersections.\nUse naturally bright leaf green with soft darker-green shading. Avoid fluorescent green and tangled vines.\n\n\u3010Golden-Orange Bow\u3011\nPlace a small golden-orange bow at the center front, below the chin and in front of the leaf collar, aligned with the chest.\nKeep the knot centered, the loops softly rounded, and the two short ribbon tails hanging naturally under gravity. Slight asymmetry is acceptable.\n\nAttach the bow convincingly, with subtle contact shadows. It must not float or sink into the fur or pumpkin surface.\nKeep it proportionate and unobtrusive, leaving space beneath the chin and avoiding excessive overlap with the leaves or torso.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, colors, and markings, and position it to suit the seated pose.\nIt must not interfere with the paws, pass through a closed costume surface, or be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent its appearance. It may remain naturally hidden.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Materials\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, resembling a high-quality animated-character promotional image.\nRender soft fur with clearly layered strands and tufts, retaining the original curl pattern and fluffiness. Do not turn the fur into smooth vinyl skin.\nGive the nose subtle natural texture and the eyes restrained highlights. Keep the pumpkin forms rounded and the leaves and bow delicately detailed.\n\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions and bright, clean colors.\nAvoid orange or green reflected light that noticeably changes the coat colors.\nDo not use thick outlines, flat cartoon rendering, oil-paint strokes, excessive sharpening, or a plastic-toy appearance.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nMaintain consistent lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering quality across the pet, hood, pumpkin body, leaves, and bow.\nShow plausible overlaps, slight fur compression, and soft contact shadows at contact points. Every accessory should have a believable attachment point and sense of weight.\n\nAlign the hood with the face, let the leaf collar settle over the shoulders, and position the bow naturally against the chest. All elements should follow the same frontal perspective.\nAvoid floating accessories, clipping, pasted-on textures, harsh cutout edges, white fringes, or halos. Do not blur or smear areas to conceal structural errors.\n\nThe final character should look complete and comfortable, with smoothly connected anatomy and an integrated pumpkin silhouette. It must not look like a pet\u2019s head and paws inserted into a fixed costume template.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at eye level, showing the full front-facing seated figure.\nInclude the entire pumpkin stem, naturally visible ears, hood, leaf collar, pumpkin body, paws, and any visible tail.\nLet the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping or excessive empty space.\n\nEven with a transparent background, the weight-bearing paws must rest on a consistent implied ground plane.\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, clothing, collar, and leash.\n\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel, containing only the pumpkin pet.\nInclude no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain contact shadows within the subject. Do not draw a checkerboard into the image or substitute a black or white background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority and Final Check\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, expression, coat colors, and individual characteristics. The pumpkin references determine the outfit, colors, materials, and visual style.\n\nThe final pet must be seated naturally upright, facing directly forward, with its head toward the camera and both eyes looking into the lens.\nPrioritize sound anatomy, comfortable spacing, naturally integrated pumpkin volume, and harmonious accessories over mechanically copying the original pose.\n\nCheck that the shoulders are not crowded, the torso is not compressed, the legs emerge from plausible positions, the paws have room to rest, and the pumpkin body follows the complete seated silhouette without overwhelming it.\n\nIf the original photo does not provide enough information to establish key front-facing features, first explain which additional photo angles are needed instead of inventing them.","image_filter_ref_img":"users\/46473\/images\/261010_0LAQPXLqx11VqiSo.png","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000","image_filter_enable_ref_img":true}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-531372","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538771],"element":"layer-197316"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-421506","top":745.67,"url":"users\/46473\/image-layers\/6ac8baaf8919f_large.webp","left":999.75,"name":"Upload Photo","type":"photo","width":399.8,"height":600,"locked":false,"rotate":0,"effects":[{"id":"id-252265","type":"gpt:image_filter","color_sketch":"#000000","light_sketch":true,"enable_contour":true,"gpt_background":true,"image_filter_prompt":"Use the original pet photo I upload as the sole reference for the pet\u2019s identity and appearance. Use the clown costume examples only as references for the outfit and styling. Transform the same pet into a \u201csoft, adorable, semi-realistic 3D Halloween clown pet\u201d: shown in a full-body, front-facing seated pose, with its head facing the camera and its eyes looking naturally into the lens. Dress it in a white clown outfit with a sculptural white pleated ruff collar, two red pom-poms on the chest, and red clown face paint inspired by the examples. Use a transparent background. The pose, clothing, and accessories must look natural and harmonious.\n\n\u3010Highest Priority: Preserve the Pet\u2019s Identity\u3011\nThe result must be recognizable as the exact same pet in the original photo.\nFaithfully preserve its face shape, ear shape, muzzle length, nose shape and color, original coat colors and markings, fur length, curl pattern, and fluffiness.\nRetain naturally asymmetrical features. Do not mirror the markings, whiten the coat, round out the face, shorten the muzzle, or substitute the facial features of the example cats or dogs.\nExcept for the small areas covered by the specified red face paint, keep the facial coat colors unchanged. Do not paint the entire face white.\n\n\u3010Pose: Naturally Seated Upright, Looking at the Camera\u3011\nPlace the pet in an anatomically natural, upright seated position, with its chest and torso facing forward, its head comfortably aligned, its nose pointing generally toward the camera, and both eyes looking naturally into the lens. It should not be sitting sideways and looking back, standing, lying down, or sitting like a human.\n\nThe pose should look composed but relaxed: keep the neck comfortable, the shoulders natural, and the head, neck, and torso smoothly connected. Do not force the chest outward, raise the shoulders, lift the chin excessively, or elongate the neck.\nThe hindquarters should rest naturally, with the hind legs bent comfortably beside or slightly behind the body and the weight balanced.\nBoth front legs should extend naturally downward from the shoulders, with correctly positioned elbows and wrists. The front paws should rest flat on the same support plane. Their spacing should suit the pet\u2019s chest width; do not force them together, splay them excessively, cross them, or leave them floating.\n\nKeep the overall pose balanced from the front while allowing subtle natural differences in the shoulders, paws, and fabric. Avoid rigid mirror-image symmetry.\nThe hind paws may be partially hidden by the body or clothing. All four paws do not need to be visible. Do not force the hind paws into the space between the front paws or deliberately expose the paw pads.\n\nUse the original photo to establish identity, not to lock the pose. Adjust the head orientation, center of gravity, limb placement, and tail position as needed to create a natural, harmonious front-facing seated pose.\nMaintain appropriate head-to-body proportions, shoulder width, torso length, and limb proportions for the original pet. Do not distort its anatomy to fit the costume.\n\n\u3010Eyes and Expression\u3011\nPreserve the original size, shape, aspect ratio, spacing, eyelid contours, iris colors, and pupil characteristics of the pet\u2019s eyes.\nThe gaze may be adjusted naturally toward the camera, but do not change the eye shape, force the eyes wider open, enlarge or round the eyes, make them protrude, add exaggerated highlights, or create glass-marble eyes, button eyes, or glowing eyes.\n\nPreserve the expression and mouth position in the original photo, including a closed mouth, slightly open mouth, or visible tongue. Do not add a smile, alter the mouth corners, or create an aggressive expression for the clown theme.\nAchieve eye contact through natural head and gaze adjustments, not by redesigning the facial features.\n\n\u3010Red Clown Face Paint\u3011\nFollowing the examples, add delicate, corresponding deep-red clown makeup lines over the original fur:\n\nAbove each eye, place a short red line extending upward toward the forehead, slightly wider at the bottom and tapering to a point at the top. It should follow the forehead\u2019s curvature and the direction of the fur.\nBelow each eye, add a curved red line that descends from near the lower eyelid along the cheek, then curves toward the corner of the mouth.\nAdd narrow, upward-curving red lines around the mouth area, visually connecting with the cheek lines to recreate the clown makeup pattern in the examples.\n\nAdapt the lines to the individual pet\u2019s face shape, eye placement, muzzle length, and original expression. Do not apply a rigid, generic template.\nThe pigment should cover only the surface of the fur in small areas, retaining fine hair texture and direction. The edges should be defined but natural, never resembling floating stickers or plastic strips.\n\nThe paint must not cover the eyeballs, replace the eyelids, or alter the mouth\u2019s structure. The upward curves around the mouth are painted designs only; they must not lift the actual mouth corners, widen the mouth, or create a human smile.\nIf the original photo shows an open mouth or visible tongue, preserve it naturally and adapt the paint to that mouth position. Do not add extra teeth or fangs.\nThe red should look like clean theatrical makeup, not blood. Do not add wounds, cuts, streaking liquid, or blood droplets.\nKeep the original nose unchanged. Do not add a round red clown nose.\n\n\u3010Sculptural White Pleated Ruff Collar\u3011\nPlace a wide, refined white clown ruff below the chin, naturally encircling the neck and spreading outward over the shoulders.\n\nConstruct the ruff from continuous radial pleats, creating a dimensional, wavy outer edge with softly rounded fold openings. The front pleats should be clearly visible, while those at the back should shorten naturally in perspective. The entire collar should follow the angle of the neck and shoulders.\nThe folds should have a rhythmic but not mechanically uniform arrangement. The fabric should look structured yet supple, not like plastic tubes, paper rolls, metal plates, or a row of separate cylinders.\n\nThe collar must rest convincingly on the neck and shoulders. Its size should suit the head and shoulder width, with subtle rises and dips following the body\u2019s shape. It must not float around the neck like a horizontal disk.\nDo not obscure the chin, cheeks, ears, or naturally visible tongue. Do not constrict the neck, prop up the head, or make the head appear detached from the body.\nUse clean, neutral white with pale-gray shading to define the folds. Avoid a yellowish cream tint or overexposed areas that lose detail.\n\n\u3010White Clown Outfit\u3011\nDress the body in a well-fitting white clown jumpsuit that covers the shoulders, chest, abdomen, and front legs, with enough ease to accommodate the seated pose.\nUse a fine, soft, slightly substantial matte fabric with a subtle weave. It should be opaque and should not resemble plastic, rubber, or a heavy blanket.\n\nEstablish a natural, anatomically sound body structure first, then fit the outfit to it. Each front leg should sit inside its corresponding sleeve, which follows the real shoulder, elbow, and wrist without shifting the limb\u2019s position.\nThe cuffs should gather gently just above the paws, leaving the front paws and their fur fully visible. They must not constrict, float, or cover the weight-bearing paws.\n\nCreate soft folds around the shoulders, underarms, abdomen, and bends of the front legs that respond to the pose, fabric tension, and gravity. Do not make the outfit a perfectly smooth, skin-tight shell, and do not use excessive wrinkles to conceal anatomical errors.\nThe fabric around the hind legs should gather naturally with the seated position and connect plausibly to any visible hind paws. Do not add limbs or force the paw pads into view.\n\nPlace exactly two red pom-pom buttons in a vertical arrangement at the center of the chest. Their size and spacing should be balanced, and their alignment should follow the chest\u2019s curvature.\nThe pom-poms should be full and round, with short, dense fibers. Their bases must appear attached to the fabric, with subtle contact shadows, rather than floating.\nKeep exactly two pom-poms. Do not add a third or turn them into flat red circles or glowing spheres.\n\n\u3010Tail\u3011\nThe original tail may remain naturally visible beside or behind the body. Preserve its shape, color, and markings.\nPosition it to suit the seated pose without interfering with the paws. It must not pass directly through closed fabric, and it must not be duplicated.\nIf the original photo does not show the tail, do not invent one. If it is naturally hidden, there is no need to expose it deliberately.\n\n\u3010Natural Integration\u3011\nThe head, neck, body, limbs, and clothing must form one complete, believable character. Do not paste the head and paws onto a fixed clown-costume template.\n\nKeep the lighting, perspective, sharpness, and rendering style consistent across the face paint, fur, ruff, outfit, and pom-poms.\nAt the neckline and cuffs, show a few naturally protruding hairs, slight compression of the fur, and soft contact shadows. Let the ruff settle over the neck and shoulders, and let the pom-poms follow the fabric\u2019s surface.\nEvery accessory should have a plausible attachment point, sense of weight, and overlap with surrounding elements. Nothing should float, intersect unnaturally, or look crudely composited.\n\nClearly distinguish the white fabric from the pet\u2019s fur. Do not merge white clothing and white fur into one indistinct mass.\nKeep transitions clean and natural. Do not blur away connection problems or introduce white fringes, black fringes, or halos.\n\n\u3010Art Style and Lighting\u3011\nUse a refined, soft, semi-realistic 3D pet illustration style, close to the high-quality character rendering in the examples.\nRender delicate, soft fur with layered strands and tufts while retaining the original coat texture. Keep the eyes and expression faithful to the original photo, and give the nose subtle, natural detail.\nUse soft, neutral studio lighting with smooth tonal transitions, clear volume, and clean colors. Avoid harsh shadows and excessive sharpening.\nCreate charm through the soft materials, clown styling, and naturally balanced seated pose, rather than through an oversized head, altered facial features, or shortened limbs.\nDo not add frightening, injured, or aggressive effects. Avoid flat cartoon rendering, thick outlines, oil-paint strokes, a plastic-toy appearance, and excessive smoothing.\n\n\u3010Composition and Output\u3011\nUse a centered vertical composition with the camera approximately at the pet\u2019s eye level. Maintain a frontal view without a pronounced overhead angle, low angle, or wide-angle distortion.\nInclude the ear tips, entire head, both sides of the ruff, body, naturally visible paws, and tail. Let the subject fill most of the frame, leaving a small transparent margin without cropping.\nEven with a transparent background, the paws must share a consistent implied ground plane so that the pet appears securely and convincingly seated.\n\nRemove the original background, people, hands, furniture, collar, leash, and other clothing.\nDo not copy the printed triangular bandana worn by the example cat. Do not add hats, balloons, weapons, text, or other props.\n\nThe final image should contain only the original pet with localized red clown face paint, a white pleated ruff, a white clown outfit, and two red chest pom-poms.\nExport a high-resolution PNG with a genuine alpha channel. Include no scenery, visible ground, external cast shadow, text, watermark, or border.\nRetain appropriate contact shadows within the subject. Do not substitute a black, white, or drawn checkerboard background for actual transparency.\n\n\u3010Reference Priority\u3011\nThe original pet photo determines identity, facial features, eyes, expression, coat colors, and individual markings. The clown examples determine only the costume, makeup layout, materials, and rendering style.\nThe final pose must be naturally seated upright, facing forward, with both eyes looking into the camera. Adjust the original pose as needed to make the anatomy, clothing, and accessories work together harmoniously rather than mechanically copying the original posture.","color_sketch_image_filter":"#000000"}],"visible":true,"fit_mode":"contain","group_id":"layer-531372","required":true,"dependency":{"match_type":"all","dependencies":[{"value":[31538848],"element":"layer-197316"}],"show_by_default":false},"photo_hint":"Please upload a clear, full front-facing photo of your pet.","photo_editor":"image_placement","photo_replace":true,"schema_version":2,"shadow_display":"mockup_order","customization_type":"normal","direct_upload_style":"contain","direct_clipart_style":"contain"},{"id":"layer-197316","name":"Pet's Accessories 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